Thursday, March 29, 2007

Bainimarama and me

Was having a tough week with the Beach Bure Bar project, trying to coordinate two brothers for a meeting to discuss how we are going to get the lease. A cousin of Chita's who is in a special investigations unit with the government, offered me some advice and even prepared the papers for Joe, (Chita's brother) over a month a go, to present to the landowner. Where were they? Sitting on the kitchen bench and being given a wide berth.
I needed time out so I went to Suva for the afternoon and found myself having a coffee and a chat with Vili. He has lived in New Zealand so he can appreciate the frustrations I have been succumbing to. However, in Fiji, all is not lost. He told me that Fijians fear change. They do not believe in themselves to instigate change. Halleluiah! Am I hearing you brother! It explains a lot. Fijians don't like conflict. They don't like saying no, so they omit,evade and avoid at all costs. It drives me nuts.
Anyhow, he asked me if I had a laptop. I said 'Yes, but its back in Votua. Do you need something typed? I am a fast typer.'
Within minutes I had half the special investigations team in Phyllis, an American's car, and they were sorting out her land and business issues for free on the way down to the Coral Coast.
The report to be typed is called 'Collusion in High Places' and addresses the issues of corruption by an elite handful who have made a packet out of Fiji. One of my friend's has been involved in a land dispute and was wrongfully deported two months a go, not by the Immigration department but by the Resort which did not like his imput. It would make a good movie. He was arrested on a Friday evening around 6 pm and was immediately handcuffed. No one showed him ID. His colleague had enough time to throw a bag of stuff together and he was whisked away to Suva for a night. One of his captors was a local policeman. Handsomely paid no doubt. Anyhow, the next day, his captors brought kava and offered him a bowl as an apology for taking him. He was not allowed access to a telephone. He was taken to the airport terminal and the ticket was in an envelope marked with the name of the resort..... Jesus.
Anyhow, his testimony is evidence for this report on corruption in high places and explains the methods used by foreign investors, corrupt government ministers and even corrupt lawyers to railroad the local landowners, pay them a pittance and reap huge financial rewards.
My heart was in my mouth as I read it. My blood boiled over occasionally as I was typing and I had to stop and let out an expletive or two. Vili sat beside me writing as I was typing and then read it out loud as I typed away. It was an exhilerating experience. Not only was I helping a friend, but I was one step away from the commodore, as this report should have been presented to parliament this week.
It feel good to be doing something that is real. I have been chasing my tail for the last month trying to get the Beach Bure Bar on the road and nothing. I also need to state that in the last month we have had a group wedding six or seven couples from the village, marrying on the same day. In Fiji you have a civil ceremony and when you can afford it you hold the village wedding. A group wedding makes economic sense at this time, when many have no jobs. The preparations go on for a week. Then old aunty who was 92 died in her bed on a Saturday morning. Another week of preparations, with much kava, and much boy talk; the women are left at home. Then there are visits from the University of the South Pacific to discuss a water project. Then Chita is on the Korolevu Wai ( water) committee and has a job checking the meter on a daily basis. Then there is the plantation to be cleared, the beach to be raked, the grass outside the beach bure bar to be cut and before you know it a month has gone by...
I have been working as a tutor to two Australian couples whose children are being home schooled. Have just found out today that one of the families has bought a farm and is returning to Albury so my services are no longer required.
The last month has been food for thought. Business here is a long slow process. My idea of getting the cafe open and starting a woodfired oven have not happened. I need a job to stay. I keep applying but they have to be offered to Fijians first or the salary scale is too low and most businesses think I would not be interested. It looks like I might have to come back to Australia for an injection of good food, hot water, clean clothes, and maybe extra cash in my pocket. Its not what I wanted, but money leaches from my pocket here.
There are family bills to be contributed to, family celebrations to be contributed to, weekly food bill and transport.
I finally got Joe's wife Natalie to agree to bring him to Amelia, the mother's house for a meeting on Tuesday. The day dawned and we had visitors from USP at the house so I was busy cooking and told Chita to send a message and ask to postpone it as reception when it rains is not great. He gets a call around 8.30 asking for our whereabouts. Wednesday night, he turns to me, 'are we still going down to see Joe?' of course we bloody are, I felt like saying but just nodded. We arrive at the house to find that there has been no water for three days, so Natalie and Joe had taken their smelly nephew back to the hotel for a bath. Chita disappears for a smoke and I wait. 8.00 Joe and Natalie arrive. No sign of Chita. I ring him and tell him to come. Sometimes my patience is sorely tested.
We sit down for the meeting and Natalie basically lets the boys have it. It was a mistake to build the cafe there without a lease. We agreed to set up a milk bar initially with funds from Chita's superannuation. Joe and Chita both agreed to take Uncle and go and see the landowner to see if we can get the lease papers signed. It was supposed to be the next day. Yes Amanda, we are going.
I send Chita a text saying' hope it goes well'. I ring him after work only to discover the meeting was postponed because of an Easter ritual - fasting from four am to 4 p.m. I could roll my eyes and curse, but by now I am used to it.
Last night after dinner Chita went down to the village again to discuss the strategy for getting Isoa to sign. I have not seen him today yet. There is a fifty fifty chance it may have happened. I will wait until I hear.
Back to me. I am losing weight from walking up and down a steep hill everyday. I am feeling fit. I am loving not wearing tight fitting clothes. I am loving cooking and baking.
I just get lonely sometimes and miss my girlfriends. When you live with all guys, they are a sometimes talkative and sometimes very quiet lot. Chita talks to Joe in Fijian. If its a long conversation its either about rugby or fishing or farming.
I am in Suva for the weekend to escape the village and be alone with my man. He will stay up late of course to watch the HongKong 7's and I will wander around the shops, have a coffee and cake somewhere and do girlie things.

Thursday, March 15, 2007

Fiji Time!

I can't believe it has been nearly two weeks since I wrote my last blog. In Australia I was on the computer everyday and checking my emails several times a day. Welcome to Fiji where internet access is limited, slow, and probably not working. I have tried to use the hotel's email but a virus got into the system this week. A hillside neighbour has wireless and it only functions early in the morning or late at night. If I go into Suva or Sigatoka I have to pay heaps.
I have been trying to get things moving with the business but I am being hampered by family hierachy, family priorities and Chita's resistance to get moving. We have a potential land dispute on our hands which may seem scary for Australians but is every day life now in the cleaned up Fiji. I would like to get a lease signed by the landowner,however, he does not read or write and does not trust paper. He also prefers to keep his hand out constantly and expects to be helped. I don't want to go full hog into the cafe and find we are paying rent and gifts to keep going. We need a few grand to open but without a lease we can't get a bank loan. Grants are available from the government but that is also a go slow area as the budget was only released last week.
Chita is pushing me to quit even trying and just head back to Australia and take him with me. This is something I can't think about. I am an A type personality. I came to do a job and I am going to do my darndest to get it happening. I optimistically thought I would have everything researched and ready. Builders finishing off and we would be earning an income within six months. Hmmmm.
The reality has hit. I need to get a job. The economy is depressed and not much is being advertised in the paper. What is on offer will be paid Fiji wages. At this point I don't really mind, as any sort of cash will do... I am slowly becoming Fijian. I applied for a job with the Australian government as a small business advisor. I had my interview and was told my cv was exceptional and I was more than capable of doing the job, however it was given to a Fijian..... Frustrating. The salary was $27,000 Aust which is a middle income wage here...
Am also trying to liaise with the family. I need to get a meeting organised with the family and the landowner. I have one of the advisors for the anti- corruption board on side offering to act as a mediator. However, the family are resisting. It is their land which was signed over to this landowner by a trick. It is not theirs on paper, but to the village, yes. That is enough for them but not enough for me.
I have to be careful as women do not have all that much say. It has to go through the head of the family or the eldest brother. Chita's eldest brother is never around so I am pushing for Joe to act.
In the meantime my funds are disappearing and my desire to get a job, earn some cash and have some choices about what to do on weekends is high. I did not come to Fiji to be a housegirl and cook and clean. I need a project. Anyone got anything for me? I am desperate.
Chita and I are getting on well. Fijian relationships between men and women are different to us. They don't talk much, and fulfil clearly understood roles. I find that the Fijian male has a full life, of meetings, family functions and rugby, whereas the women are at home, or if they work in the hotels, they are out partying and picking up. I fall into neither category. I love cooking and being a homemaker but I also miss interesting and stimulating female company. Last night I wanted to visit a neighbour and discovered the torch was missing. I couldn't head down the hill in the rain without one, as I would end up sliding down the hill on my ample backside. Although, weeks of going up and down the steep hill, has tightened up my gluteus maximus.
Its an interesting plight I face. A career girl for so long and now I am in limited circumstances. I understand now why Fijian girls have babies. It gives you something to do. Have told Chita, a baby could be my new project... I try and give myself treats - a frozen yoghurt once a week at a Hawaian ice cream parlour in Pacific Harbour. I walk down the beach and end up having chats with the ladies at the Handicraft. I chat to Melania,who was the first ever policewoman in Fiji. We talked about a Fijian pumpkin dessert she is going to show me how to make.
I am trying to keep fit. I am trying to be positive. I am trying. Every other day, I give it all up, and give in to Fiji Time. I forget about deadlines and targets and go with the flow. I sit on the bus daydreaming. I chat to the van or taxi drivers about life, I walk for no reason anywhere. I read the paper everyday and keep up with Fijian affairs. I have an afternoon nap. I feel great afterwards and cook and clean with gusto. I find australian dvd's to listen to aussie accents and thoroughly enjoyed watching Jindabyne on my own yesterday afternoon.
With Chita, its the everyday that is the glue between us. I am less likely to have a hissy fit these days, as I have a better understanding of Fijian culture. Do I have a place here? Can I make a valuable contribution? Will I always be a European or kavalagi and never a kaiviti ( local)....
I think, ponder, let go....

I try and make contact with any female in the vicinity - a sixty year old American ex alcoholic who has taken up AA in Fiji with a vengeance, a sweet Christian American girl who lives in Lautoka and has been a missionary for eight years, An Italian who smokes too much dope and accidentally gave part of a cookie to her two year old son; Yes I will talk to anyone...
I visit Chita's mum once a week and fill her in on a week's worth of gossip. I contribute by paying for a fare for her somewhere, buy washing powder or food, and help with the electricity bill. In Fiji its care and share. I like this aspect very much.

Thursday, March 01, 2007

Funiculi Funicula!

Sorry I haven't written for a while, life has been hectic and access to the internet is limited for me. Life out of the village up on the hill in a European's house with running water (hot and cold) and electricity even though I keep getting zapped when I turn the switch hanging out of the wall in the kitchen is closer to my concept of normal. We have even set up Village 6 cinemas with dvd's borrowed from a dvd addict here and a projector with screen and speakers to watch movies every night. No tv, so we listen to the radio.
Have just about hit the point of frustration where I need to sign up for a course of Fijian. It is spoken 24/7 around me and I know less than fifty words. I miss out on lots of conversation and being the chatty social person I am, that is frustration absolute. I have discovered the Alliance Francaise does Fijian lessons. So if I get this job, organise my own work permit and start getting paid something closer to a normal salary, I should be able to sign up.
Chita's brother's wife is having twins. According to Fijian tradition, the children of the oldest son must be honoured with gifts. I rustled up $40 to buy kerosene. I don't have a work permit so Chita is paranoid that one of the jealous villagers will dob me in to Immigration and I will be deported. We already have one friend who was deported a couple of weeks a go for being involved in a land dispute. I therefore was not invited to the ceremony on Friday night. On Saturday morning I dropped into the village and was invited for dinner, but wasn't feeling well. On Sunday there seemed to be more kava happening. I blew a head gasket. I did not come to Fiji to sit alone everynight. I am not here to be just a house girl and cook. Had a huge discussion with Chita and we have worked out our frustrations. Me pushing my way into his life, being a kavalagi who have a history of taking over ( the British colonization of Fiji) and a discussion of whether we have a future or not.
It was a chance for me to get my personal frustrations off my chest. I am supporting the household, doing all the cooking and working. I do not even get quality time with my beloved. He is too busy fulfilling obligations to the village. I did not realise that when you fall for a Fijian guy you also get a whole village as well.
A friend from Suva, told me once " You can take the boy out of the village, but you can't take the village out of the boy"
Didn't know what that meant until now. I have applied for a job, got an interview on Wednesday and hopefully will know future directions.
This week has been a group wedding in the village. Six or seven couples who have had a civil ceremony, have children even, but need to have a church wedding. It was the talk of the coast. I found out at 10 pm on Sunday night that Chita was best man for one of the couples and I knew nothing about it. I have a series of moments where I take deep breaths and try to remain calm. So Monday Chita was off to Sigatoka to sign the forms for the civil ceremony for one couple who hadn't done it. Thursday was the wedding. I arrived at the end of the wedding ceremony in the Methodist church and soaked up the fabulous male choir. I then went back to Chita's mums house and met one of the housekeeper's from the Pearl, who I see everyday. We are related. As Chita's future spouse apparently, everyone works out their relationship to me. Pana calls me sister in law, and Asenaca calls me cousin.
I spent Wednesday afternoon having a Betty Crocker bake off and making bread. I made white loaves, two fruit loaves and banana bread which instantly disappeared.
Last night Chita appears around 6 pm kava doped, showers then disappears to the village for another bash. Home around 9 pm to devour food, as he has not eaten all day. He has a pretty bad cold that started a week or so a go and funnily enough is still lingering.
I had to get up at 6 am this morning. Walk down the hill. Walk 30 minutes along the road to Korolevu, then cross the bridge, step down onto the beach, follow the curve of the bay at full tide, up to my knees in salt water and waded around the beach to the Warwick Hotel, to get some money out of the ATM. I then went to the souvenir shopt to buy a paper to change a $20 so I could get $4 exactly for my van fare to Pacific Harbour. All this before 8 am.
I sat outside the Warwick on a stone wall and had the good fortune to be picked up by an airconditioned car. Deluxe. He turned the air conditioning up so I could cool down and my beetroot features could return to normal. All for the princely price of $4. Oh how my life has changed.
Am gathering a set of dvd's for a weekend of viewing if it rains. If it is as gloriously sunny as it was yesterday I will be at the beach, swimming, snorkelling and strolling.