Thursday, February 08, 2007

On again Off again

Had a family meeting last night and discussed the opening of the cafe. Yes it is going to happen. Chita and I have had chats. So much energy and effort has gone into the building, that it seems pointless not to get it going and get something in return for our efforts.
I am dealing with a culture which has no concept of time. Things are said to me and I sit here wondering whether they mean today, tomorrow, never or maybe. Its been a frustrating time. I have given Chita an ultimatum ( which means absolutely nothing to him but everything to me) to get the cafe open as a small milkbar as soon as possible.
I have had a win. In Suva last week I meet a cousin who is on the anti corruption board and is also going to advise me on how to get a work permit. Its who you know here.
I spoke to Natalie, who works at the Naviti Hotel, and is Joe (Chita's brothers' wife) about what we can do to push these men forward. She is going to get me contact details for bricks, a vocational unit in Suva that makes cheap chairs and tables, and I am somehow going to get the electricity and water on by the end of February.
I have decided that too much information is not good for a Fijian male. They process one thing at a time and sit on that until its done. It drives me nuts but that's the way it is.
I have now developed the method of sneakily planning, organising and networking quietly and will present everything I have done as a fait accomplis.
I need a return on my investment, I can show him how to start budgeting and saving money. What a challenge!
Its not that they don't want to but somehow daily life gets in the way. Its been a challenging, frustrating and culturally different experience for me.
Living here has developed a gentle rhythm and I am up at 6 or 6.30 at the latest everyday. I am eating simply, exercising everyday and never lonely. I came here to find a way to bridge two cultures and make a business and relationship work. A huge challenge and we are still talking to each other so something must be going right.
I will keep you posted.

Monday, February 05, 2007

Unexpected circumstances!

Last week was challenging to say the least.We had a huge fight. Its always over something trivial which has an underlying serious significance. A funeral took place in the village over the last week, revealed to me by Chita as we walked back to village and he is berating me yet again for my state of dress. I had a sulu and a tank top, which in seemingly 40 + degrees is the very least, but my bare arms were offending all and sundry. He told me off in front of his close friend Joe, whose downcast eyes indicated his embarassment. I entered the house and let fly.
My response was:
I have just walked past your two aunties, both bare armed and I am not going to put up with your controlling behaviour anymore.
Chita storms off to have a bath, then returns and apologises, but when I realised the underlying pressure upon him, I can understand why he has been so paranoid. The land on which our cafe is built is Chita's family land. However, some years a go (time is always unclear in Fiji) the land was signed over to another family - the usurpers. Unfortunately the current Mayor of the village ( an usurper) is collaborating with one or some of the village elders to basically graft whatever he can. Money for a water project has disappeared, the village ownership of Mike's Dives has somehow mysteriously been signed over to him, he received payment for lease of a house to an American, and no documentation exists and he has asked again for the full amount, and another American marine biologist has been threatened with payments to the usurping landowner but luckily his paperwork does exist and cannot be touched. This blackmailing, bullying, constantly asking for money, and no accountability is unfortunately the new Fiji. Its the old Fiji that has developed a corrupt culture which has forgotten its 'share and care' mentality and basically rips off both the ignorant and unaware indiginous people as well as the kavalagi.
I have had a week of being the Fijian 'wife' who has to cook for three males: Pele, Walai and Chita every night, and make interesting meals from 2-3 ingredients.I have started the budget so its bottom of the fridge meals for big eaters this week.
Chita's mum Melia has gone to Nabutini to be with Chita's sister who has just had a baby. I had a hire car two weeks a go so I took Melia into the hospital and met Lasaro the new edition to the Tubuna household. He's a creamy caffe latte colour and very alert.
The funeral took over the life of the village. I came home to find the men of the village carrying poles and sheets of tin to construct a room on the village green. From the first night, the clanging sound of the kava being pounded rang in my ears. I cooked dinner on Tuesday night, and had just sat down with Chita to eat, when the door opened and a stream of a dozen or so Fijian men poured in.
ring your food and sit on the floor and eat.
I took one look and escaped to the bedroom, Chita pulling an extension cord behind me so I could watch a dvd. I was relegated to the bedroom. I did not even have time to get my chicken soup. I fell asleep and woke up around 6 am to see Chita whispering
'If you want a coffee, better go and make one, while everyone is still asleep'
I tiptoed around the sea of sleeping males, and sat on the backstep drinking. Had no idea what had gone on, what was going on, and when I asked Chita, he replied
'I will tell you later.'
I got a message from a friendly marine biologist asking me for a lunch of pasta and I flew up the hill, ravenous, and wanting to find out what had gone on. Apparently, as Chita is the youngest son, he can be called by one of the elders to man the kava bowl all night; which he did. One of his uncles had told him that ' a group would be sleeping in the house' and everyone obeys the Fijian hierarchy without question.
Being a European (anyone who is not Fijian)means being overcharged on a daily basis. I have had the frustrating experience of catching vans and buses to my job in Pacific Harbour everyday for a week. I have realised that the only way to not be ripped off, is to basically work out what I am prepared to pay, and go to the bank, and change $40 Fijian dollars into $2 notes so that I am ready for the daily onslaught. If I have no change I get charged $5 instead of $4. I spend $40 a week on transport just to get to work and back and its more than I spent on petrol back in Australia for a week.
Its been a big week of making some serious decisions. I came here all fired up to set up a woodfired bakery and make pizza, pane, biscotti and torte for eager tourists wanting fresh food, and unfortunately our business in its current state of 'no lease' will fall victim to constant handouts, free meals, and donations to whatever. We can't afford it and I don't think I could stand it. Its sad really. Chita's enthusiasm is inspiring but even he has just had enough.
We both can't face opening this business.
Its a turning point for him and I. One I did not expect at all. I thought I was here to set up a business, make enough money to build a house and create a tropical lifestyle for myself. However, that has been put on hold. I am now backing off from my bakery project for at least a year, and with a wait and see attitude.
Its disappointing but I am oh so glad, we talked about it before we opened. We are both unhappy about it but he is exhausted from setting it up and just wants to escape.
I am happy to spend the next few months in Fiji working out our relationship, working part-time at the Pearl, swiming, exercising and relaxing.
I am still optimistic we can get the cafe going, but not right now. He needs a break and we need to get to know each other without the stress of a business on our shoulders. He has also been worrying about how to protect me from the bad elements of the village and now he does not have to worry.
Last night we lay on mats on the porch at the front of his mother's house. It was the first time he had ever done it. Changes are a foot. The house has been as hot as Hades for the last couple of weeks, so we are now lounging outside on our own.... Major change...