What a week! I have adjusted to village life somewhat but there are things that can get on an Aussie girl's nerves. Like meal times. I love to cook. I love to feed a crowd. I love to sit down and immerse myself in convivial chat and have a good time. The bane of my life this week has been cooking meals and having no one turn up on time. I sit and wait, while food congeals or dries up and I am not happy Jan. In Fiji, the women prepare meals each evening but do not have a bloody clue when their men will show. Maybe they are having a chat along the road with someone; maybe they are at an important village meeting; maybe they are drinking kava; maybe they are sitting on the deck talking; and maybe just maybe I am fed up with this arrangement. Fijians arrive for a meal, either sit at a table, but more commonly along a long rectangular cloth on the floor, and turn over a plate, fill it up, eat in silence and leave. No bloody fun for me!
I have also adjusted to washing in cold water using an outdoor sink. It takes me three hours, as I soap up, scrub with a brush on a wooden board I found ( and wasn't quite sure what to do with it so I just rest my washing on top and scrub away. I then remove a 10 foot bamboo pole holding up the clothes line, lowering it to my height. Place the clothes on the line with pegs and then hoist it back up to tree height. Was so proud of myself to see an array of nearly clean washing, only to turn my back and go back to the sink for more, and hear 'splat! splat! splat! as clothes fell to the ground. I realised that the plastic pegs that Fijians use require the peg to be locked into place or otherwise they fall off.
Its been stinking hot and nights of sleeping in the front room of a concrete house which receives the full blast of the sun. I toss and turn, my bedding heats up, my pillows heat up, and my head heats to an unbearable temperature so I wake up, move and try to find a cool spot. Have spent the last few nights having a bucket bath before bedtime.
I have a new part time job while I am waiting for the boys to finish with the bar. The deck or should I say 'dick extension' is finally finished. Looks amazing and if I want to find Chita, he is always there at sunset with whoever wants to have a chat. This week its doors on hinges, a splash of paint, pipes in place for the sink, and a deal to be made with Mikes Divers for using electricity.
I started my new job this morning. I woke up at six am, bucket bath, getting dressed, watching Chita leap from the bed beside me going ' Amanda' then realising I am awake already and promptly falling asleep again. We are living at his mum's so its respect all the way, and separate beds are us. I don't mind at all as I heat up like a furnace and need all the space I can create around myself to keep cool.
I made a coffee and sat contemplating until 7 am. A stroll to the road to join the queue of school children in gleaming white shirts and grey sulus, with pristine backpacks on their backs ( its the first week of school here) and I try to flag down a van.
The art of catching a van in Fiji is tricky as I still haven't identified the vans that only go to the nearest village on either side, and the suva- lautoka vans, or the food vans. I missed a fast van, and then waited for the bus. While I was talking to Di and Vive waiting to catch the bus, I missed another van. I then got my finger out at the right time and caught a van with an Indian driver. I am not racist, but with an Indian driver and me being white or kavalangi I knew I was going to have to pay more. In fact a $4 ride turned into $5. Have to go to the bank this afternoon and get change for the week, so I just shove the right amount into the driver's hand. I am on a budget.
I arrive at The Pearl, at 8.30 and decide to walk down to the beach. Sit on a chair overlooking the water and close my eyes for five minutes and get a grip.
Its been a busy morning as Donna, Michaela and Gaby and I move all the resources into a hotel room which will become our classroom. I am teaching 5 mornings a week, with access to internet whenever I need it. Yippee! Otherwise I have to catch a van to Sigatoka and pay $10+ for the slowest broadband ever.
I have planned our lessons and have got my head around the NSW version of outcome statements. I have the afternoons to pursue my woodfired oven project. The boys have told me they can build it. I just have to get the bricks. I can't wait to cook in an oven which is actually hot. Tried to make pikelets yesterday on a kerosene stove but with no sizzle it was hard to get them to be light, fluffy and browned, instead of uncooked gluey missiles.
I am also on a diet and have started steaming and boiling as everything here is fried. No wonder the Fijian ladies ass is so wide. They eat last, hoover up everything that has not been eaten and its all deeply drenched in oil or coconut oil.
Chita made the classic mistake of not thinking before he opened his mouth yesterday. We arrived back from Suva in the heat of the day, and he asked me to cook lunch. I came up with chicken drumsticks in a tomato salsa with zucchini, guacamole and fried white sweet potato chips. Cooking the sweet potatoes was a mistake in 36 degrees with a stove that takes all bloody day to heat up. I sat on a chair, hovering over the pot and sweating buckets. Chita came in hungry and tried to rush the cooking.
Its done.
No its not.
Then as he started eating he said 'There's always some flavour missing from your cooking'
I took his plate and told him 'You don't have to eat it'
He was about to continue, when he took one look at my face and said
Okay okay.
I burst out with 'No chilli or curry powder in this'
You are rude to talk about food like that, when someone has sweated buckets to make that food for you.
He took one look at my trembling top lip and went to the fridge and poured me a glass of water.
Later that evening, just before bed time he turns to me and says, I just want to say, Thank you again Amanda for the lovely dinner.
He will have to adjust to the delicate flavours of boiled and steamed food as there will be plenty more...
Sunday, January 28, 2007
Wednesday, January 17, 2007
In the village, the peaceful village!
Have spent the last week in Chita's village staying in his mother's house. Its been interesting to say the least. Fijians are very kind, gentle people and they don't like to tell a kavalangi when they are offending traditional customs, so its been me making mistakes and Chita correcting me.
For example, the front door of the house is only for the owner and his wife to enter. Everyone else has to enter by the back door. There I go skipping in and out of the front door, completely unaware of a serious offence. I know that you have to take your shoes off , from previous visits but making sure your feet are clean is something I tend to forget, as I stroll up from the beach. I also have to sit with my legs not facing the middle door, as outside it is a major walkway where everyone passes, so my legs must not show at all. If anyone walks past, they must be invited in for a cup of tea or kana ( a meal). One night, Chita's sister in law, said"Man we should move the doors, then we could eat our dinner in peace!"
I have to wear the sulu or sarong when I am on the front porch, even if I am wearing shorts. Its been incredibly hot so of course I keep forgetting. I also start out with a sulu over my shorts, from the village, walk up the beach and start taking off clothes, by the time I get to the Warwick Hotel I am in my bathers. Coming home I have to put everything back on and be fully covered.
I hate the fact that my upper body is a gorgeous golden brown but my legs are stark white so whenever possible I get them out.
Staying in the village means eating dinner late, the children and grandma on the floor, either side of a long cloth, and me at the dining table with whoever wants to sit with me. Some nights people come over, they will be polite, and speak a little English but once stories need to be told, its Fijian only. It can be lonely at times, sitting quietly, listening like mad and not understanding a bloody word of it. I have learnt greetings and 'katakata' because it has been very hot. I have had to throw water over my head each night before I go to sleep. The first few days were exhausting as my body was still trying to adjust to the change of temperature. Now after a week, I am tanned, have lost weight, and have been avoiding the humungus portions of food dished out by saying I am on a diet.
Things with the bure bar are creeping a long. We are so close, but have some unexpected expenses. We have the roof to finish, the electricity to put on ( a deal with Mike's divers next door) tables to make, chairs to buy, and a cash register. Bits and pieces like teatowels, receipt books, cutting boards and the like will be scrounged from all around.
To start cash flow I have insisted we start a roadside barbecue. You stop and for $3.50 a serve you receive my garlic, ginger and chilli chicken wings, a bean salad and a piece of cassava. Chita's mum is going to show me how to hack the cassava, or should I say peel the cassava with a machete, not sure how I will go.
Its been hot! hot! Hot! Plenty of drinks and avoiding treats. Chita had a cornetto in Suva yesterday and I had one bite only..... Yes I know its strange but true.
The water in the village has been off for sometime. There have been animated discussions on what needs to be done and who should do it. The mayor has not called a village meeting for months so no one can do anything. I am drinking boiled water mostly but after a visit to the hospital today to see Chita's new nephew, Amelia, his mum and I bumped into two ladies from the village who are looking seriously ill. One has an enormously distended stomach and the other an enormous boil on her neck. I am thinking bacterial, infection and I think its the water. Have to remember to buy Fiji water in the bottle for me to drink tonight. I cannot and do not want to get sick. We have so much to do.
I wake up every day and can use the toilet in the morning but to wash I take a bucketful of water from a nearby tap and slosh it over my head, Japanese style. Its been greatly soothing on some of these hot nights. I get sticky hot and am desperate to shower, but there is no water so I can't just jump in the shower whenever I want to. I also can't use the toilet after 9 am so I spend the day planning my toilet stops. Today I was returning a hire car so I stopped at the Outrigger Hotel and utilised their facilities. Its part of my daily toil.
I love the beach. I love the reef. Went snorkelling with Victor and Natalie to plan a tour last week and just loved floating about. Have been swimming nearly everyday and love just sitting and looking at the sea.
Last trip I was here, I grabbed Chita around the waist as we were heading back to the village. I said' What a beautiful Sunset!
'Yes' was his reply.
Now is the bit where you kiss me in front of the beautiful sunset.
Oh yes Miss Amanda Sutton. Right away.
For example, the front door of the house is only for the owner and his wife to enter. Everyone else has to enter by the back door. There I go skipping in and out of the front door, completely unaware of a serious offence. I know that you have to take your shoes off , from previous visits but making sure your feet are clean is something I tend to forget, as I stroll up from the beach. I also have to sit with my legs not facing the middle door, as outside it is a major walkway where everyone passes, so my legs must not show at all. If anyone walks past, they must be invited in for a cup of tea or kana ( a meal). One night, Chita's sister in law, said"Man we should move the doors, then we could eat our dinner in peace!"
I have to wear the sulu or sarong when I am on the front porch, even if I am wearing shorts. Its been incredibly hot so of course I keep forgetting. I also start out with a sulu over my shorts, from the village, walk up the beach and start taking off clothes, by the time I get to the Warwick Hotel I am in my bathers. Coming home I have to put everything back on and be fully covered.
I hate the fact that my upper body is a gorgeous golden brown but my legs are stark white so whenever possible I get them out.
Staying in the village means eating dinner late, the children and grandma on the floor, either side of a long cloth, and me at the dining table with whoever wants to sit with me. Some nights people come over, they will be polite, and speak a little English but once stories need to be told, its Fijian only. It can be lonely at times, sitting quietly, listening like mad and not understanding a bloody word of it. I have learnt greetings and 'katakata' because it has been very hot. I have had to throw water over my head each night before I go to sleep. The first few days were exhausting as my body was still trying to adjust to the change of temperature. Now after a week, I am tanned, have lost weight, and have been avoiding the humungus portions of food dished out by saying I am on a diet.
Things with the bure bar are creeping a long. We are so close, but have some unexpected expenses. We have the roof to finish, the electricity to put on ( a deal with Mike's divers next door) tables to make, chairs to buy, and a cash register. Bits and pieces like teatowels, receipt books, cutting boards and the like will be scrounged from all around.
To start cash flow I have insisted we start a roadside barbecue. You stop and for $3.50 a serve you receive my garlic, ginger and chilli chicken wings, a bean salad and a piece of cassava. Chita's mum is going to show me how to hack the cassava, or should I say peel the cassava with a machete, not sure how I will go.
Its been hot! hot! Hot! Plenty of drinks and avoiding treats. Chita had a cornetto in Suva yesterday and I had one bite only..... Yes I know its strange but true.
The water in the village has been off for sometime. There have been animated discussions on what needs to be done and who should do it. The mayor has not called a village meeting for months so no one can do anything. I am drinking boiled water mostly but after a visit to the hospital today to see Chita's new nephew, Amelia, his mum and I bumped into two ladies from the village who are looking seriously ill. One has an enormously distended stomach and the other an enormous boil on her neck. I am thinking bacterial, infection and I think its the water. Have to remember to buy Fiji water in the bottle for me to drink tonight. I cannot and do not want to get sick. We have so much to do.
I wake up every day and can use the toilet in the morning but to wash I take a bucketful of water from a nearby tap and slosh it over my head, Japanese style. Its been greatly soothing on some of these hot nights. I get sticky hot and am desperate to shower, but there is no water so I can't just jump in the shower whenever I want to. I also can't use the toilet after 9 am so I spend the day planning my toilet stops. Today I was returning a hire car so I stopped at the Outrigger Hotel and utilised their facilities. Its part of my daily toil.
I love the beach. I love the reef. Went snorkelling with Victor and Natalie to plan a tour last week and just loved floating about. Have been swimming nearly everyday and love just sitting and looking at the sea.
Last trip I was here, I grabbed Chita around the waist as we were heading back to the village. I said' What a beautiful Sunset!
'Yes' was his reply.
Now is the bit where you kiss me in front of the beautiful sunset.
Oh yes Miss Amanda Sutton. Right away.
Thursday, January 11, 2007
Balmy Fiji!
Having not seen Chita for 3 months, and its always a daunting task, to emerge through the customs doors and see if he is there waiting for me. I had bought some food and seeds I had to declare but they just waved me through.
I came out, he wasn't there, so I rang him on the mobile.
I am walking towards the airport now...
I walk out, and find him sitting on a bench waving a newpaper at me. He has cut his hair short, and looks fit and healthy.
We take the trolley down to the airport cafe and talk. No military in sight. Welcoming, smiley faces everywhere and it's warm..... two rum and cokes later, we are very relaxed.
We decide to stay at Tubukula cottages and catch a taxi there. I order dinner and a bottle of wine.Nice.
Can we have dinner in our bungalow?
Sure?
Can we go now to our room?
No I am sorry the security guard must take you and he is just fixing the gas.
Can you open the bottle of wine for me?
Sure... Sorry sorry, I will ask the cook to do it for you.
We pile the trolley with my 50 kg of luggage and head for the bungalow. Showers, a drink and dinner and a long talk.
Back to Votua the next day by taxi.
Kalara's house where I was going to stay, has a fence around it and her family are sending her back to their village. She has been drinking and carousing and not looking after the house. Chita's bure is a mess and he doesn't want us to live there. I spend the day talking to everyone, swimming, and find out at 7 o'clock at night, we are staying at his mum's.
I take a walk up the beach in the afternoon to see Simon, an Australian Fijian who is wanting to start a water sport business up and down the coast. He is a builder. Inoke the aging Fijian movie star, yes he was in a telemovie with Tele Savalas and played a sheik in a dramatic piece in Egypt greets me.
Bula Amanda.
I have been looking at your place. It looks good. But where is your room?
Hey, what a good idea! We build a room next to the bar and we have independence, privacy and can look after the bar. Once I start making bread I will need late night and early morning starts, so I can go and crash nearby....
I am ecstatic. Simon gives me instructions, a room made from tin, 14 x 8, with a toilet and shower - two doors so that visitors have bathroom access too...
Its only Day 1 and I am feeling more secure.
We visit Victor's for a barbecue dinner with pork spare ribs soaked in beer, the usual, garlic, chilli and lime. Delicious. Even grilled potatoes, not cassava on the barbecue!! How very European.
Day 2 sees me having tea and fresh passionfruit for breakfast. I sit talking to Chita's mum and then read my book until 11.30. I am about to head down the beach to go snorkelling, but lunch is waiting.
I have already prepared lunch for you.
Sit down, have a cup of tea... the meat will take 3 minutes....
I sit down, and tell her, that I have come to Fiji to get healthy and I am on a diet.
Okay, okay.
A huge bowl of beef stew appears.
That's for you Amanda.
Vinaka.
I eat about a third of it and gather my things to go. Chita has organised a mask. I stop at the bure bar to talk to Tamo who has a mouthpiece. I go nextdoor to Mike's dives and borrow a pair of flippers which I promise to return promptly.
Loaded up I head for the Marine Protected area. There have been so many changes in the last few months. A wedding chapel has gone up next to Vilisite's with a big fence and two security guards. I try to duck down the alleyway beside Asela's shop and she has built a gate and locked it. Unbelievable.
I stop at the concrete cage or drinks bar and order a sprite. Talking to the new shopkeeper, I find out she is from the Yasawas and wants to develop a small business there. I offer to help her plan it next Monday. Projects appear everywhere....
I walk into Villa Della Cowrie, the wedding chapel and ask the security if I can take a shortcut.
I will walk you down to the beach madam
Vinaka.
I am gobsmacked at the wedding chapel, its perching on the sand and it looks a little unstable. I walk over the rocks to the beach and wait. I swim in the crystal blue water and just float. My white body is changing colour rapidly as I turn into a sun lizard...
Victor and Melanie turn up and we head out into the lagoon to map a snorkelling tour they are setting up. I just follow along behind, not really caring where I am going and what I am doing. It takes a few minutes to get used to the snorkel again, and I need to use my flippers more to move me along.
I see fish, clams, sea slugs and sea urchins. I hit an area where the coral is high and I am not sure I can swim over it. Victor calls out
Amanda don't worry keep going, you will float over the top
I sure do.
We visit the deep ponds at the edge of the lagoon. I float over soft coral in an array of pastel colours, pink, yellow and mauve.
Victor and Melanie start pointing. I take my mask off, and turn around in the water, missing a reef shark completely....Thank God! I would have been paralysed with fear.
We are trying to find plastic bottle markers and they seem to have disappeared. We swim in a huge loop and then cut across it, for swimmers who may not be as strong. The current is building, and I have to paddle hard to get there.
My mask is initially too tight and hurting my nose. We expand it, and my mask starts filling up with water....
I am getting tired and the shore seems a long way away.
Yes, we have figured it all out now Amanda.
Great!
I head for the shore.
Victor tells me I have to cut through Simon's family house to get back to the main road. He leads us along the old road in the jungle, which finishes at Villa del Cowrie's fence. We end up doing a bush walk through the overhanging fronds back to the beach.
My freedom has been curbed. My long beach stroll to the Warwick for a swim and magazine can now only be done at low tide.
We get back onto the main road and run into Abo.
Amanda I am so sorry.
Why? Abo?
I cut my arm.
I know.
I am so sorry I have not been able to help you.
Its okay. You need to look after your arm.
He has sliced it and done some serious damage to his fingers. The feeling and movement is slowly coming back.
I know I could have stopped it, but I am Fijian you know, and I couldn't stop myself.
IE. I knew I shouldn't have been drinking and I could have stopped myself, but I didnt.
Victor and I laugh. How Fijian is that!
My mobile rings.
Where are you?
Walking down the beach. See you soon.
I decide to broach the subject of a master plan.
Chita is very defensive, short.
I have built this bar for you, now it is up to you to make it work.
No, no,no. I need your help.
I will be around.
I smell fear.
Everyone talks. I have made this, a shitty little bar.
What?
I love it. It's got atmosphere, it's great.
We walk back to his mum's for another curry.
Chita gives me some instructions about what to wear and where to sit. I must wear a sulu in the village at all times. I must not enter by the front door, as that is only for the owners of the house. I must make sure I cover my legs when I sit down. In fact it is better that I don't sit and face the door.
His brother Joe and wife natalie arrive. I find out that there is walkway past the dining room of the house. Chita's mum has a door which is always open and because people walk past, you must greet them and offer them either kana ( food) or tea.
Natalie suggests they move the door and put in windows, as it is the only house in the village where everyone can see straight in. Maybe plant a hedge of flowers to block the view.
I am learning new things daily.
The kids have raided my chocolate in the fridge, after lollypops, nuts, chips and cordial all day. Pacing yourself is not a Fijian way. Whatever you have you eat it all, or drink it all.
Chita and I talk. He is worried about paying back my brother's money.
Worst case scenario, I go back to Tassie and relief teach or work for a while to pay it off.
We need a small business development loan to get the business up and running so I will go to the bank tomorrow to see if they are still on offer under the current seeming unstable government. Fijians are behind Bainimarama's clean up campaign. Stories of corruption at all levels appearing daily and a naughty list with the first name of an offender, has been printed in the paper today.
Foreigners organising land leases which they don't pay for, borrowing huge sums from banks and a variety of funds, with pitiful payments back to the local landowners. Its all over.
Last night Chita was wavering. We will do what we agreed to do. It will be tough. But if we can make this work now, imagine in boom times.....
I am positive. I now have to activate my own personal action plan and show everyone and myself what I know I am capable of...
I came out, he wasn't there, so I rang him on the mobile.
I am walking towards the airport now...
I walk out, and find him sitting on a bench waving a newpaper at me. He has cut his hair short, and looks fit and healthy.
We take the trolley down to the airport cafe and talk. No military in sight. Welcoming, smiley faces everywhere and it's warm..... two rum and cokes later, we are very relaxed.
We decide to stay at Tubukula cottages and catch a taxi there. I order dinner and a bottle of wine.Nice.
Can we have dinner in our bungalow?
Sure?
Can we go now to our room?
No I am sorry the security guard must take you and he is just fixing the gas.
Can you open the bottle of wine for me?
Sure... Sorry sorry, I will ask the cook to do it for you.
We pile the trolley with my 50 kg of luggage and head for the bungalow. Showers, a drink and dinner and a long talk.
Back to Votua the next day by taxi.
Kalara's house where I was going to stay, has a fence around it and her family are sending her back to their village. She has been drinking and carousing and not looking after the house. Chita's bure is a mess and he doesn't want us to live there. I spend the day talking to everyone, swimming, and find out at 7 o'clock at night, we are staying at his mum's.
I take a walk up the beach in the afternoon to see Simon, an Australian Fijian who is wanting to start a water sport business up and down the coast. He is a builder. Inoke the aging Fijian movie star, yes he was in a telemovie with Tele Savalas and played a sheik in a dramatic piece in Egypt greets me.
Bula Amanda.
I have been looking at your place. It looks good. But where is your room?
Hey, what a good idea! We build a room next to the bar and we have independence, privacy and can look after the bar. Once I start making bread I will need late night and early morning starts, so I can go and crash nearby....
I am ecstatic. Simon gives me instructions, a room made from tin, 14 x 8, with a toilet and shower - two doors so that visitors have bathroom access too...
Its only Day 1 and I am feeling more secure.
We visit Victor's for a barbecue dinner with pork spare ribs soaked in beer, the usual, garlic, chilli and lime. Delicious. Even grilled potatoes, not cassava on the barbecue!! How very European.
Day 2 sees me having tea and fresh passionfruit for breakfast. I sit talking to Chita's mum and then read my book until 11.30. I am about to head down the beach to go snorkelling, but lunch is waiting.
I have already prepared lunch for you.
Sit down, have a cup of tea... the meat will take 3 minutes....
I sit down, and tell her, that I have come to Fiji to get healthy and I am on a diet.
Okay, okay.
A huge bowl of beef stew appears.
That's for you Amanda.
Vinaka.
I eat about a third of it and gather my things to go. Chita has organised a mask. I stop at the bure bar to talk to Tamo who has a mouthpiece. I go nextdoor to Mike's dives and borrow a pair of flippers which I promise to return promptly.
Loaded up I head for the Marine Protected area. There have been so many changes in the last few months. A wedding chapel has gone up next to Vilisite's with a big fence and two security guards. I try to duck down the alleyway beside Asela's shop and she has built a gate and locked it. Unbelievable.
I stop at the concrete cage or drinks bar and order a sprite. Talking to the new shopkeeper, I find out she is from the Yasawas and wants to develop a small business there. I offer to help her plan it next Monday. Projects appear everywhere....
I walk into Villa Della Cowrie, the wedding chapel and ask the security if I can take a shortcut.
I will walk you down to the beach madam
Vinaka.
I am gobsmacked at the wedding chapel, its perching on the sand and it looks a little unstable. I walk over the rocks to the beach and wait. I swim in the crystal blue water and just float. My white body is changing colour rapidly as I turn into a sun lizard...
Victor and Melanie turn up and we head out into the lagoon to map a snorkelling tour they are setting up. I just follow along behind, not really caring where I am going and what I am doing. It takes a few minutes to get used to the snorkel again, and I need to use my flippers more to move me along.
I see fish, clams, sea slugs and sea urchins. I hit an area where the coral is high and I am not sure I can swim over it. Victor calls out
Amanda don't worry keep going, you will float over the top
I sure do.
We visit the deep ponds at the edge of the lagoon. I float over soft coral in an array of pastel colours, pink, yellow and mauve.
Victor and Melanie start pointing. I take my mask off, and turn around in the water, missing a reef shark completely....Thank God! I would have been paralysed with fear.
We are trying to find plastic bottle markers and they seem to have disappeared. We swim in a huge loop and then cut across it, for swimmers who may not be as strong. The current is building, and I have to paddle hard to get there.
My mask is initially too tight and hurting my nose. We expand it, and my mask starts filling up with water....
I am getting tired and the shore seems a long way away.
Yes, we have figured it all out now Amanda.
Great!
I head for the shore.
Victor tells me I have to cut through Simon's family house to get back to the main road. He leads us along the old road in the jungle, which finishes at Villa del Cowrie's fence. We end up doing a bush walk through the overhanging fronds back to the beach.
My freedom has been curbed. My long beach stroll to the Warwick for a swim and magazine can now only be done at low tide.
We get back onto the main road and run into Abo.
Amanda I am so sorry.
Why? Abo?
I cut my arm.
I know.
I am so sorry I have not been able to help you.
Its okay. You need to look after your arm.
He has sliced it and done some serious damage to his fingers. The feeling and movement is slowly coming back.
I know I could have stopped it, but I am Fijian you know, and I couldn't stop myself.
IE. I knew I shouldn't have been drinking and I could have stopped myself, but I didnt.
Victor and I laugh. How Fijian is that!
My mobile rings.
Where are you?
Walking down the beach. See you soon.
I decide to broach the subject of a master plan.
Chita is very defensive, short.
I have built this bar for you, now it is up to you to make it work.
No, no,no. I need your help.
I will be around.
I smell fear.
Everyone talks. I have made this, a shitty little bar.
What?
I love it. It's got atmosphere, it's great.
We walk back to his mum's for another curry.
Chita gives me some instructions about what to wear and where to sit. I must wear a sulu in the village at all times. I must not enter by the front door, as that is only for the owners of the house. I must make sure I cover my legs when I sit down. In fact it is better that I don't sit and face the door.
His brother Joe and wife natalie arrive. I find out that there is walkway past the dining room of the house. Chita's mum has a door which is always open and because people walk past, you must greet them and offer them either kana ( food) or tea.
Natalie suggests they move the door and put in windows, as it is the only house in the village where everyone can see straight in. Maybe plant a hedge of flowers to block the view.
I am learning new things daily.
The kids have raided my chocolate in the fridge, after lollypops, nuts, chips and cordial all day. Pacing yourself is not a Fijian way. Whatever you have you eat it all, or drink it all.
Chita and I talk. He is worried about paying back my brother's money.
Worst case scenario, I go back to Tassie and relief teach or work for a while to pay it off.
We need a small business development loan to get the business up and running so I will go to the bank tomorrow to see if they are still on offer under the current seeming unstable government. Fijians are behind Bainimarama's clean up campaign. Stories of corruption at all levels appearing daily and a naughty list with the first name of an offender, has been printed in the paper today.
Foreigners organising land leases which they don't pay for, borrowing huge sums from banks and a variety of funds, with pitiful payments back to the local landowners. Its all over.
Last night Chita was wavering. We will do what we agreed to do. It will be tough. But if we can make this work now, imagine in boom times.....
I am positive. I now have to activate my own personal action plan and show everyone and myself what I know I am capable of...
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